"Premium foods are the latest attempt by supermarkets to tempt consumers." Such were the vociferous words of the UK Consumer Association (CA) this week.
In a new Which? report from the CA released on Thursday, just over half the premium products tested scored higher than their standard sister ranges.
The report claims that sophisticated packaging and tempting names such as 'The Best' and 'Extra Special' might be unfulfilled promises.
"Weight for weight, the premium foods we checked cost on average 75 per cent more than the standard products, but they weren't always the tastier option," said Helen Parker, Editor of Which?.
"In fact, the Asda, Safeway, Sainsbury's and Tesco premium products only scored higher than the standard ranges for just over half of the foods our experts tasted. None of the cakes, tomatoes or smoked salmon got top marks, suggesting that premium doesn't guarantee a top tasting food," she added.
The UK Food and Drink Federation (FDF) was quick to respond to the claims made in the Which? report, and in a statement released this week, said: "Consumers are getting more for their money, as we know from the ready meals market where premium products are plentiful."
"A premium product is likely to have a different recipe than the standard range…and often the packaging will be different. This isn't just superficial, it may mean the product has a longer shelf life."
But the strongest, and possibly most convincing, argument from the FDF had to be in the words:
"Consumers aren't fools. They are very savvy and if shoppers feel that they are being had, they won't buy that product again - the purse rules."
But we are all aware that there is a fine line between consumer choice and the exceptional marketing skills of retailers and food manufacturers.
Further details about the Which? report can be found on the Consumer Association website.